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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee well-known award-winning establishments. However, situated near the top among these culinary giants is a simple salonu located in a distant area of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This honour has made the family utterly astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest place securing such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.